Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Orchids trick wasps.

The broad-leaved helleborine (Epipactis helleborine) is an orchid that grows throughout Europe and Asia. It is but one deceiver in a family that is rife with them. About 10,000 species of orchids trick pollinators into visiting their flowers. Some attract males by mimicking the sight and smells of females. Others resemble orchid species that provide rich nectar rewards, while providing none themselves. But while thousands of species offer the potential for sex or food, only the broad-leaved helleborine advertises itself by promising fresh meat.

Darwin himself noted that even though the helleborine packs a substantial reservoir of nectar, it is pollinated by only two species of insects – the common wasp and the European wasp. Until now, no one knew how the orchid was attracting its pollinators. Jennifer Brodmann from the University of Ulm in Germany solved the mystery by testing how wasps responded to the smells and sights of orchids.

She found that the smell of the helleborine alone attracted just as many wasps as the whole flowers. In contrast, the sight of a flower in a glass box that didn’t let any scents through was far less attractive. Luring wasps with odours makes sense for the helleborine, for it grows in shady parts of dark coniferous forests, where they are difficult to see.
A smelly trick
Vespula_germanica.jpgBrodmann used gas chromatography to analyse the chemicals released by the flower, and recorded the electrical responses of wasp antennae as the scents wafted over them. She detected several organic molecules such as hexanal and hexyl acetate that are collectively known as “green-leaf volatiles”. They are produced by other plants when they are set upon by insects and those of the cabbage, for example, responds to caterpillar infestations by producing a very similar spectrum of chemicals to the helleborine.

In these other plants, green-leaf volatiles are a call for reinforcements. They summon predatory insects that feast on the caterpillars, or parasitoids that use them as living larders for their own eggs. Common wasps are no exception. By placing them in a Y-shaped tube with different scents at the prongs, Brodmann found that wasps were consistently drawn to the smell of helleborines over empty chambers. They even preferred chambers containing synthetic mixtures of the green-leaf volatiles released by the orchids.

Any wasp that is duped into visiting a helleborine flower still receives a drink of nectar for its troubles. In the future, it may associate the smell of green-leaf volatiles with a sugary reward, and be more likely to visit flowers of the same species. That suits the helleborine, which receives a specific pollination service.

By releasing the right chemicals, the broad-leaved helleborine has effectively hijacked the lines of communication that other plants use to recruit wasps. It’s the first species known to do this, but unlikely to be the only one.

Brodmann also found that the closely related purple helleborine (Epipactis purpurata), which is also pollinated by wasps, produces similar levels of green-leaf volatiles. On the other hand, a third species from the same genus, the royal helleborine (Epipactis atrorubens), which are pollinated by bees, releases few if any of these chemicals.. The strategy seems to only work on wasps.

http://blogs.discovermagazine.com/notrocketscience/2008/05/12/orchid-lures-in-pollinating-wasps-with-promise-of-fresh-meat/

Saturday, July 2, 2011

How to coat Orchids in resin

The first step is to delicately dry the orchid or other flower in silica gel.  It must be carefully done so as not to deform the shape of the flower.  After a few days buried in the dessicant, the flower is ever so carefully removed and dry brushed to remove any silica dust that might be clinging on.


At this point the Orchid is sealed with a craft glue.  Sometimes two layers is required to seal the entire flower. These must be allowed to completely dry, between, and after before proceeding to the next step.
Next, two-part resin is mixed in equal amounts and mixed thoroughly.  This is painted on with a small brush and allowed to dry.  Many layers are applied to achieve a strong coating.  They are stored in a dust free, drying environment, or wiped off between layers.


An Orchid like the one shown can require as many as 20 layers of resin!  My wife makes these to order into necklaceses and other jewlery items.  Prices start around $60.  The waiting list is very short at the moment, but that may change.  Email me for details if interested.

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Easy Orchid Care

There really is not much difference at all between growing orchids and growing other plants. All plants really need the same care to be healthy and this consists of meeting their basic needs in terms of water, food, warmth, sun and air.

Orchids require these same basics to grow and thrive – it is only the amounts which separate them from other types of plants. The amount needed of each of these elements for growth also separates orchids from one another.

Orchid care begins with providing the right humidity level for the type of orchid you intend to grow. Generally speaking, orchids need between 40% and 70% humidity day after day.

While most plants control water evaporation, orchids cannot, and are constantly in a state of losing water. The only controlling factor is the amount of humidity in the air.

Know how much humidity your orchid is going to require before purchasing it.

If you are growing orchids, you need to supply continuous atmospheric moisture, whether it be by hosing the garden or inside, by spraying the plants, setting them over trays of water or keeping them in a container such as a glass environment where you can control the humidity levels.

Humidity is not a problem in cold weather. You should follow periods of humidity by a time of drying out. This is similar to having morning sun followed by an afternoon shower, and then morning sun once again the next day.

Air is another necessity of orchids.

In nature, orchids often grow up trees because they have excellent air circulation. While all plants pull carbon dioxide from the air, orchids are extremely efficient about it.

Good ventilation is essential to growing healthy orchids indoors. A ceiling fan is good for air circulation. Even indoor orchids need fresh clean air inside so open a window whenever possible. If it’s cold outside, arrange it so the air is warmed before it hits the plants. For example, open the window from the top and not the bottom.

Place your orchids where they will get the most sunlight they can without suffering any ill effects, such as sunburn.

Orchids need lots of light–around ten hours per day. This light should not be at full intensity at all times so start them out in the sun and then move them  to shadier spots or filter the light through curtains until you achieve the desired effect.

Orchids need to be protected from frost and snow. Many orchids grow naturally where temperatures dip well below freezing. In the Andes, for instance, temperatures in the 20s are not terribly uncommon.

But you must be very attentive to colder temperatures, and orchids that do experience cooler temperatures must remain dry. Cold and wet are not good conditions for growing orchids.
Cooler orchids are those said to need a temperature averaging fifty degrees. Check out temperature charts online or in orchid books for which orchids do best at certain temperatures.

Your orchids need to be fed. That is a step of orchid care not to be ignored. Some growers still argue about what orchids need to be fed and how much. But, especially if you are a beginner, you will want to do everything possible to have healthy orchids.

Begin by using orchid liquid fertilizer, whether it be synthetic or organic. Most orchids today are planted in osmunda, or dead fern roots, which decomposes.

Always check your orchids for yellowish or brownish discolorations which might mean the plants are malnourished. Check out recipes for nutrient fertilizers online.

If you meet these basics of orchid care and culture, you should have no trouble at all being successful at growing orchids. As long as they have the basics of food, air, humidity, protection and light, orchids will respond positively.

Friday, June 3, 2011

My Favorite Orchid

Picture taken today, 6-3-11 at my home in Honolulu.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Screw Roses, Get her Orchids for Valentine's Day.

Valentine's day is less than a month away.  On a normal year, I might be tempted to allow that to wash over me unconsidered, but this year I have flowers for sale! 

What are you planning to do with your flower budget?  I say Orchids are the new roses.  Think about it.  Orchids are fresh and eternal, roses are so... played out.   Do you think she really wants ANOTHER overpriced, past-its-prime bouquet of cut flowers?

Absolutely not.  She wants an interesting, and beautiful flower, that is alive.  Something to nurture and care for.  Something that will remind her of your love again and again , and the next time that orchid blooms, that is exactly what will happen.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Welcoming Reader Contributions

I'd like to invite anyone who is willing to submit a book or Orchid review.  If you are the retailer of the product you may submit it to me directly for review.   See contact info below.

At this time I am also accepting guest posts for this blog.  It's a great way to get a backlink to your own blog, and it helps me fill in some much needed quality content. Win-Win for everyone including my readers.

You can contact me at:   myers06   at  gmail   dot   com.   

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Orchid Care in the Winter

Orchids grow more slowly with less light and cooler temperatures. Sounds like winter right? 

This means they will also need less water, and less food than in the brighter warmer summer months. Allow your orchid plants to dry out slightly unless they are in bloom, or like to be moist all the times, such as moth and slipper orchids. You will also find that they generally need less frequent watering than in the summer. Similarly, unless you orchid is actively producing new green growths, reduce the frequency of fertilizer applications to about once or twice a month.

Be sure to water your orchids early in the day so they are dry by nightfall. This is especially important in winter when cool damp conditions can result in greater incidence fungal and bacterial infections.

If you orchid is in bloom display it in a bright spot in your home. Warmer growing orchids such as phalaenopsis (moth orchids) like temperatures at above 65 degrees at all times. Cymbidiums, which are widely available in bloom during winter, thrive under cooler conditions of about 55-65 degrees, or even less. Remember that dry air can quickly cause buds to drop so be sure to run a humidifier near your plants, or keep them away from vents, fireplaces, and other sources of dry heat.

Blue Orchids Don't Exist

There's a lot of internet buzz about Blue Orchids.  I can't quite figue out why, since they don't exist.

"...but I just saw a picture of one on the last page I looked at."

I know, I know, but pictures are faked or manipulated easily.  I can push the color levels in photoshop to make my face look blue if I wanted too. 

The simple fact of the matter is that Blue Orchids are a myth.  It is sort of like finding Dasani on Mars.  There are plenty of purple orchids, even black orchids, but there are no blue ones.

Now if you want to consider dyed orchids, silk orchids, or some other means, then yes... I'm sure you'll find what you need.  But if you want a real blue orchid, give up now and let me save you some time.

The White Stripes have a song called 'Blue Orchid', and I suggest you use the time to listen to that instead.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

You Can't Buy Ghost Orchids

The Ghost orchid flowers are on the verge of extinction. Therefore, it is against the law to eliminate or reposition any of these endangered species of the orchid family. These flowers are observed on the plants in hardwood hills, marshy areas, and at the pitches of cypress. Normally, the roots of these flowers are gray-green in color, with a size of up to 18-20 inches. The seeds of these are most of the times scattered by breeze and land in the marsh. The sprouting of these seeds is impossible unless a specific fungus is present near the landing spot.
Another significant point is that these flowers need not be confused with the Eurasian Ghost Orchid, as it is a constant hemicryptophyte of the orchid species (Orchidaceae). Other general names for this species are the White Frog Orchid and Palm Polly. Previously, the ghost orchid flowers were categorized under Dendrophylax, but recently, it has been shifted to the Polyrrhiza family. Certain synonyms for this species are referred as Dendrophylax, Angraecum, Polyradicon, and Aeranthes lindenii.

Overview:
The World Checklist directory of the Monocotyledons of Kew Botanical Gardens still consider the Dendrophylax lindenii as the approved name, whereas Polyrrhiza lindenii is regarded as a homotypic synonym. The nickname "lindenii" is obtained from its explorer Jean Jules Linden, who very first explored the ghost orchid flowers in the year of 1844, in Cuba. These flowers mainly receive their moisture and nutrients directly from the air and sun. They are attached in a mesh of huge, twisted and crowded mass of a plant.
A majority of these species of orchids are found in the damp, marshy woodlands in the Bahamas, Cuba, and southwestern Florida. This member of the orchid family on the verge of extinction. They are quite rarely observed in clumps that are traded on the black market. The nurturing of this particular flower outside from its locale has proved to be a quite impossible task, as it needs specified nurturing circumstances. This requires to be raised away from its hereditary puddle fulfilling the requirement of huge humidity. These flowers are mentioned on the II Appendix of CITES.

Appearance:
These orchid flowers mainly bud in the period between June and August, with a total of around ten aromatic flowers and one flower is unwrapped at a time. Aside the barb emerging from the set-up of the roots, a flower of 3-4 cm wide and 7-9 cm lengthy is known as the white flower. The minor edge of them generates two lengthy petals coiled somewhat in the downward direction similar to the shape of legs of a frog.

Orchid Habitat and How it Relates to Their Care

The classifications of plant species is an exact science and no short article can thoroughly explain how Orchids relate to the world's vegetation. This is, in part, due to the amount of misinformation that exists. What we can attempt, however is to familiarize you with Orchid habitat, diversity and other factors that will help you better understand and enjoy them.

One thing we know about the classification of plants, is that the botanical division known as species is where nature supposedly draws the line. When speaking about the Dendrobium, for example, we learn that there are 800 to 1200 species, (depending upon which expert you consult). According to plant classification definitions, no hybridization should occur among parent species. Nonetheless, within this genre, hybridized or cross-bred varieties number around 25,000. Many therein are labeled (correctly or incorrectly), species. It is no wonder that when we research Orchids, we become confused by the cross-talk. If you peruse internet sources, books or publications, you will observe that the term species is commonly interchanged with what others may call a variety.

Perhaps then, we should begin from another direction. We know that orchids have existed since the time of the dinosaur, or approximately 80 million years. Everything was large in those days, including plants and insects. Early on, Orchids devised artful means of presenting their wares to pollinating insects. Rather than competing with the myriads of flowers that offered pollen, they began to develop clever shapes and phonemes (odors) that attracted insects for other reasons, often sexual ones. These apparatus were so successful that today there are well over 300,000 varieties of Orchid.

Orchids remain a species that can evolve to survive all but the most severe changes to their environment. It may take a few generations, but if any plant can find a way, the Orchid will. For one thing, they aren't just ground dwellers. Among the first plants to house themselves in trees, (epiphytes), they also grow by attaching themselves to rocks (lithophytes) and in soil, (terrestrial). A few even seek subterranean shelter in underground waterways, (throughout the arid regions of Australia).

Orchids prefer three types of growing regions - temperate, tropical and sub-tropical. We envision a tropical environment as one with rainforests, a hot and humid climate and a canopy of overhead plants. What is temperate? It is an environment with decidedly hot days and cool nights. Note: With the exception of only a few, most Orchids cannot grow in climates that suffer hard freezes during winter months. Having said that, there are species that grow in the Arctic, but frost-hardy orchids are not the norm. Neither can they grow in arid climates. With the exception of the afore-mentioned subterranean plants, deserts do not have an Orchid population.

It now follows that we determine the geographical locale of said specimens. Enthusiasts suggest there are only two. Old World, (from Europe to Australia, respectively), and New World, (from Mexico to the tip of South America, including the Hawaiian and Japanese Islands.)

When it comes to the successful domestication of Orchids, it behooves us to understand these regions. Many Orchid grower efforts have been thwarted because of two main errors in care. First, they did not realize that most Orchids have a normal resting or dormancy period. Second, they did not know the origin of the plant, and therefore misinterpreted the loss of leaves as indication the plant was dying. Fearing the worst, they increased watering, when in fact, during this resting period Orchids require little to no water as long as they are misted. Our next set of information will help us understand why some Orchids are dormant when others are blooming.

Orchids grown in the southern hemisphere will bloom sometime between October and February, while those native to the northern hemisphere, bloom between March and September. (There are, of course, a few exceptions - these are Orchids, after all!) Observation is key to determining what your orchid's natural season of growth/flowering is.

Observation is important with regard to another issue, as well. If you have an orchid and you don't know its origin, you have to carefully determine what a healthy Orchid looks like during both seasons. If it seems never to flourish, perhaps you should know about the kinds of Orchids.

Cool Orchids come from climates that are sometimes uncomfortably hot during the daytime, but have cool evenings. In some of these environments, temperatures drop to just above freezing. Evening fog and mists keep cool orchids moist - a requirement for nearly every Orchid. If you have been providing your orchid a location where the temperature varies little and it is not thriving, try moving it to a cool porch. Make sure it is misted frequently and see if it responds.

If you want an Orchid that can grace the inside of your home year-round, try a hot Orchid. These orchids like heat and light, (albeit, not direct sunlight). Most of us keep our homes around 70 degrees, day and night. As long as the Orchid is kept hydrated (misted, or bedded on a pebble-filled tray of water), hot orchids do well in our homes.

The most temperamental of all Orchids is the warm variety. They need a minimum temperature of 60 degrees when growing, and 55 degrees when dormant. However, and this is the most difficult requirement for most home owners, during the resting period they cannot tolerate temperatures warmer than 60 degrees. This means two things to an Orchid grower who does not yet know the type of orchid they have. First, that you must determine what months of the year it becomes dormant and second, you must experiment with its temperature requirements.

So there we have it. Orchids grow on trees, on rocks or in well-drained soil. There are three main geographic areas of growth - tropical, subtropical and temperate. There are two regions that comprise Orchid habitat, Old World and New World. Northern hemisphere Orchids bloom from March to September while southern hemisphere Orchids bloom from October to February. Finally, there are three types of orchid - cool, warm and hot.

Armed with this knowledge and a keen sense of observation, we can successfully grow these willing plants in our gardens or homes. For your convenience I am including sample locations of Old and New World growers in both the northern and southern hemispheres:

Old World: NORTHERN HEMISPHERE - (Thailand), SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE - (Australia)

New World: NORTHERN HEMISPHERE - (Japan), SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE - (Brazil)
Article written for Orchid Forest of Thailand, by Chris Mayree. You may reprint this article pro gratis by including the credits and tips information.

Monday, January 24, 2011

Support our blog, by supporting our sponsors.

Whether you're looking for black orchids, blue orchids or something else orchid related .  If you like the content of this blog you may also like:


Understanding Orchids

This was an excellent read. This book on orchid growing, is much more detail oriented than others on the market, yet easy to read and the author's conversational writing style will be most comforting to beginner's.



The book has 4 divisions:

Part 1 - Setting up the Orchid Environment talks about buying your first orchid, the anatomy of the orchid, where to grow them, light, temperature, humidity and air movement, and quite detailed information about artificial lights.

Part 2 - Care and Feeding covers the basics of watering, fertilization, potting and repotting, types of mixtures, mounting orchids on trees and branches, pests and diseases, and a troubleshooting guide.

Part 3 - Orchid Reproduction is about hand pollination and the care of seedlings, and hybridization.

Part 4 - Common Orchid Genera from A to Z features a gallery of orchids with photos and cultural advice as well as skill levels (beginner, expert, experienced).

This is a book for both beginners and advanced orchid growers.  

Caring for your Phalaenopsis

An orchid is not some sort of exotic, and difficult to grow plant.  Orchids have traditionally been grown by specialty growers, producing flowers for the cut flower trade or plants for the collectors.

During the last few years more growers now produce select groups of orchids, in sufficient quantities. This commitment to grow these wonderful and attractive bloomers make these plants more available, and affordable.

Many nurseries and garden centers now carry orchids on a regular basis. Some of this orchid "group" includes oncidiums, dendrobiums, and phalaenopsis.


As with most flowering plants orchids "show off" in their own blooming season. During the months of December through May is the season for phalaenopsis commonly known as the "moth orchid". They are beginning to hit the stores and before you go out an purchase one, we want to provide some general care information.

General Care

Growing a Phalaenopsis Orchid in your home can be rewarding and fun. It is particularly well suited for the conditions you already find at home. Phalaenopsis hybrids flowers range is size from 2" to nearly 5" in diameter.

Colors range includes white, pinks, lavender and yellow in both solid colors and mixes of stripes and spots. Many new a bold color pattern are beginning to show up also. Phalaenopsis flowers offer both exotic form and superb longevity. Individual blooms can last as long as 3 months. Flowers open sequentially at 2-5 day intervals along an arching spike.

Light

In the home, Phalaenopsis orchids enjoy a spot near or in a bright window. You’ll want to avoid direct mid-day sun but early morning or late afternoon sun is great. An east or west facing window is ideal. In darker or cloudy environments a shaded southern window might be best.
You can supplement normal light with fluorescent lights placed approximately 1 foot above your orchid. Time your lights to simulate normal day length. If you have a home greenhouse you should consider using a heavy shade cloth (especially during the summer) to limit light levels to 1,000 – 1,500 foot candles.

Temperature

The ideal temperatures for the Phals range between 55 and 85 F. For ideal growing try to maintain 60 at night and between 75  and 80 during the day.

Cool night time temperatures in the fall encourage flower spike initiation. However, once the flower spike is developed, wide swings in temperature can cause unopened bud to drop off. Temperatures in excess of 90 can slow growth.
Phalaenopsis also benefit from moderate humidity levels. Ideal levels range between 50 and 75% relative humidity. In a heated home you will want to set your plants on a shallow tray filled with gravel and water. This should help to keep the humidity near your orchid at acceptable levels. Make sure that the plants roots are NOT sitting in water.

Water

Moth orchids do not like to be dry to the point of wilting. They should be watered thoroughly and then not again until the media is nearly, but not completely, dry.

How often you water will depend on the type of media your orchid is growing in and its growing environment. Once every week to 10 days is a good starting point.
In winter, with the heat on in your home, lower humidity will mean you’ll water more frequently. Don’t let your plants dry to the point of wilting – it will really set them back.
Remember to not get any water on the flowers as this will shorten their longevity.

Fertilizer

For convenience, a slow release fertilizer with equal proportions of N-P-K (14-14-14) used as directed, can work very well. If you prefer to use a liquid plant food, again with equal parts of N-P-K, apply it at recommended rate every second time you water.
During blooming season you might consider a blooming plant formula with elevated phosphorus levels (i.e. 10-30-20). During winter months you can reduce liquid fertilizer applications to once a month.
I would recommend staying away from feeding altogether while the plant is flowering.